Surfers are wave watchers and wave chasers by nature. The ultimate goal is to be in rhythm with the ocean, score excellent waves and gain more knowledge about their ever-changing environment in motion.
As our planet shows significant signs of an imbalance, the effects of climate change can be felt more acutely in surfing than in many other sports.
In some ways those shifts are bringing more favorable conditions, in other ways, they are eliminating them.
Environmental conversations and nature conservation is nothing new for surfers, who commonly have a deep connection and respect for the ocean.
But while the sport that achieved Olympic status in 2020 continues to invest in greener solutions, it remains miles away from being sustainable.
As the desire for bigger waves increases, so do the ripples that are caused by the demand for a more environmentally-conscious surf industry. More and more big surf brands and competitions are jumping on the environmental bandwagon and supporting a more sustainable future for the surf industry.
But what are the big challenges surfing is facing now and in the near future?
Shifting surf seasons and XXL surfing conditions
Surfing depends on specific parameters to meet various wave needs. Recreational wave levels differ largely from specific surf competition criteria.
The Eddie serves as the most impressive example. Hawaii´s legendary Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational tournament, aka ´The Super Bowl of Surfing‘ will only kick in if wave face heights reach a minimum of 40 feet+ at Waimea Bay.
Only nine times has this epic event taken place since its inauguration in 1984. John John Florence won the last one in 2016 in thrilling 45-60 foot wave height conditions. The problem is, a powerful and perfect swell like that has been happening rarely. Research shows, that this could be changing fast
Climate scientists have been studying the warming ocean‘s effect on wind patterns. Their predictions of more frequent and intense tropical storms over the next decade can fuel those Big Wave spots with extra fire.
The research remains ongoing, but surfers have already sighted the shift. Last year, pro surfers experienced significantly larger swells during a pumping winter period at Mavericks in California. Despite the changes that were seen in an unusually delayed start, the athletes adapted on a high note to a longer-stretched season, making the most out of more peppery giants and extended training time in the water.
Super typhoons
The prediction of more frequently-forming tropical storms and extreme weather could also bring harm to famous surf regions, such as the Philippines in Southeast Asia. In December 2021, a level-5 super-typhoon destroyed the dreamy village of Siargao. With it went the surf-watching tower and the Cloud-9 boardwalk. The iconic boardwalk used to serve as easy access to the world-class Righthander break over shallow reef.
The attempts to rebuild this important landmark are still a long way away, this time with a stronger structure than before. Surfers have been helpful and eager to return to this paradise and bring back the vibes, the fun and the WSL World Surf League Qualifying Series event one day. Other popular surf spots and communities that depend on surf tourism could become more frequently affected as more extreme storm conditions increase in already vulnerable places such as Indonesia and Mexico.
Notorious heat
Mexican Big Wave surfer and ocean activist Marcial Monreal has recently returned to his hometown Puerto Escondido, after spending six months in Hawaii. Shortly after his return, Cyclone Agatha hit the Western-Mexican Pacific region widely. The level-2 storm was reported as “the strongest May hurricane to make landfall along the Pacific coast of Mexico since modern record-keeping began in 1949,” according to the National Hurricane Center.
Oaxaca‘s pristine coastal region was wiped out to a great extent. It’s a miracle that it largely spared Puerto Escondido‘s surf beach with its famous Zicatella break. Marcial is conscious of changes and explained the risk factor of rising temperatures in an interview with FanSided:
“Here in Oaxaca, it’s super hot already so it’s a common topic to talk about heat and sweat and being super muggy all day. I can’t imagine it being hotter. I think it could be actually dangerous to go outside and surf at midday. We do talk about taking care of our skin. The sun is super strong so we tend to use sunscreens that are biodegradable and reef-friendly.”
Water quality and marine life
While surf sport companies have shown greater efforts in developing greener products, the majority of surfboards from entry-level to high performance are still made from toxic plastics. Alternatives are tricky and expensive to achieve. Serious surfers want to take responsibility without compromising their results. Algae foam is popping up here and there but its development still needs to mature.
Marcial Monreal explained: “Surfers are usually environmentally aware in nature. And since we are in touch with Mother Ocean, a lot of us feel like we have to give something back since the ocean gives us everything. But with that being said, for example, our surf equipment, our surfboards are made of fiberglass and really harmful foams that are really bad for the environment. I do know of a couple of companies that are trying to do sustainable surf surfboards and sustainable accessories for boards. Although we are actually not moving forward fast enough in that matter just because it’s way more expensive and it’s also not as good of equipment when you use biodegradable materials, especially on surfboards.”
If the surf industry wants to be less harmful to marine life, the industry needs to step up faster in changing surfboard technology, investing in greener boards and equipment, and making it more accessible and affordable for everybody.
Flooding and Fanno‘s legendary rescue action
Where there‘ll be more storms, there‘ll be more flooding. Floods are undeniably an enormous problem for the environment, humans and the surf. Record rainfalls, have resulted in river pollution and often shark-infested waters.
Extensive flooding occurred earlier in March on Australia‘s Gold Coast and Northern Rivers. A year’s worth of rainfall poured down in just a few days. Amongst the local Tweedhead community was three-time world surf champion Mick Fanning who raised questions about his community’s future.
The Aussie legend who battled off a Great White Shark in the J-Bay Open in 2015 was now rescuing people and pets in rising floods. So did fellow surf mates Joel Parkinson, Mikey Wright, Mark Mathews, and other local pro-surfers on their jet skis. Fanning continues to organize flood relief programs and invest in greenhouse-emission reduction programs.
In an interview with Surfline, Fanning explained “Everyone who was involved in helping people out at the time, the surf conditions didn’t even cross our minds, we just weren’t thinking about it at all. When I did start getting back in the water after that, during my first few surfs, I felt super guilty. Like, how can I surf when all these people are still trying to clean four inches of mud out of their houses? I remember having a quick surf that afternoon (March 29) and realizing that for me it’s like going for a quick wash-off. Filling myself up so I’m a better version of myself to go and help people in those situations. I’ve always believed that surfing is a healing thing, for me anyway — it helps me to be a better and a more useful person for everyone.”
Beach erosion and seawalls
Beach erosion, is yet another problem facing surfing. Rising sea levels are washing away sand, infrastructure, swimming pools and houses. But what exactly does that look like? Half of the sandy beaches worldwide could be lost by the year 2100, according to a report, published in March 2020 in the Nature Climate Change Journal.
Australia would be affected the most with around 12.000 km of glorious coastline at risk. North-Sydney’s well-known surf beach Narrabeen, which became a National Surfing Reserve in 2009, has quite a history of consistent surf and big competitions. Lately, the stretch has been in the spotlight for different news.
Big swells were causing massive damage to nearby houses. The decision to construct a 7-meter-high sea wall, after a big storm in 2016, divided the community.
Initially built to protect the properties around the stretch of Collaroy, some argue that human interference has even assisted in worsening the sand erosion.
Thanks to the contributing community of surfers and other valuable ocean lovers, the Surfrider Foundation organization is at the activism forefront to protect our oceans, waves and beaches. Surfrider Foundation‘s Coast and Climate Initiative Sr. Manager Stefanie Sekich-Quinn explained:
“From a cultural perspective, seawalls are esthetically unappealing and can change the character of a beach town.
While seawalls unequivocally steal sandy beaches, there are alternatives to building these structures. For nearly 40 years, Surfrider has been advocating for alternatives to seawalls such as watershed and dune restoration. Restoration projects can help fortify natural systems. In addition, we advocate for ‘Living Shorelines’.”
The Surf boom
Surfing absolutely exploded over the last decade and sparked enormous enthusiasm around the globe. The boom in popularity has been accelerating consumerism too.
More travel, more flights, mass production of surf fashion, surf gear, more wave pools and a larger carbon footprint.
Surf has gone mainstream with remnants of the past culture here and there. What once was mysticism and spirituality, a wrongly stigmatized hippie-slack image, evolved into a sport with a fandom larger than ever. The boom doesn‘t just mean all eyes on the sport but also all eyes on the surf environment and ocean protection needs.
German up-and-coming big wave surfer and coach Freddy Olander tackles giants in Nazaré, Portugal. He put the challenge into perspective and explained, “For me it‘s all about being in nature and having a good time, getting some of the biggest waves in the world, and enjoying life to its fullest. It‘s to protect what we love. For the implementation, we must first change our conscience and perception.”
An opportunity we can‘t afford to miss.